Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Inniskillin 2004 Brae Burn Vineyard Shiraz - $24.95

It has been said that Shiraz will not grow properly in Ontario – too cool a climate for this sun loving, heat seeking grape … well don’t tell that to Shiraz, which is doing quite well in Ontari-ari-ari-o thank you very much. I have tried quite a few of the ’04 Shirazes and I would have to say I’m rightfully impressed by a number of them. This one from Inniskillin drinks well now but shows even greater promise for the future. The nose is a bit closed off right now, but still hints at dark fruit and lots of pepper. The palate is a little more inviting with dark fruit, black pepper and a typical Shiraz spiciness. Atypical for this variety is the wonderful crème brulé finish … yup, crème brulé. Has the hot grape found a cool climate home? Only time will tell. Drink now or give this one a few years to come fully into its own … then pop the cork and enjoy.
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Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Calamus Estate Winery 2006 Unoaked Chardonnay - $14.00

So I brought this wine to my mother who is always looking for a decent white to drink although she is a red fan at heart. I said, “Mom, you have to try this.”
“What is it?” She asked me.
“Just try it,” I said, and she did.
“Oh this is lovely,” she exclaimed after her first sip, she took another and another. “What are those flavours? Are you getting apple?”
“Maybe a little,” I said, “but this one has good tropical fruit too, like pineapple, kiwi and mango – lots of mango actually … oh, and there’s a touch of vanilla in there too.”
“I’m getting the vanilla,” she said, “and something else …”
“I find there’s some smooth buttery like softness,” I said pouring her another glass. “And the mangoes really come through on the palate. There’s also a touch of sweetness, it’s, I believe, a one on the sugar code … but it’s bright smooth, has good acid balance, not too tart and finishes well.”
“What is it we’re drinking?” She asked as I poured her a third glass.
“It’s the new Unoaked Chardonnay from Calamus.”
“I usually don’t like Chardonnay, but this really is quite good, and Calamus is making some really nice wines, I’m impressed … thank you dear.”
“You’re welcome mom – sleep well.”
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Tuesday, August 7, 2007

Willow Heights Estate Winery 2005 Unoaked Chardonnay - $11.95

It’s been a long time since I’ve had a Willow Heights wine I really enjoyed. It seems the Heights had fallen on hard winemaking times, and every bottle on the shelves was lacking that all-important VQA symbol. But now it’s out of the doldrums and into the light. There’s a silver lining that has emerged and some momentum being generated: first, a silver medal for this unoaked Chardonnay at the 2007 Ontario Wine Awards. We also have a new award-winning winemaking team that has taken over the reigns (Rob Power and Craig MacDonald – from Creekside). What all this good news means is that we are going to hear a lot more from the Heights in the coming months. But first let’s get into this wine a little deeper … it has tropical fruit nuances, soft pineapple, citrus tastes and some butteryness from the lees contact. After all that wine-babble let’s just say it’s mighty good and well priced. You can get pick up this wine at both the winery and at the LCBO.
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Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Norman Hardie Winery 2006 County Chardonnay - $29.00

Norman Hardy looks like a laid back kind of fellow, he has one of those accents that's a mish-mash of everywhere he's been and nowhere in particular; but get this wondering winemaker between a few of his barrels of wine and suddenly you know his origin is somewhere between the vineyard and the cellar. In the cellar he seems to atke on the roll of the nutty professor, going from barrel to barrel sampling, tasting and measuring; and the blends he comes up with are nothing short of wonderful. Before me sits a glass of his 2006 County Chardonnay (set for release in July 2007); only 800 liters will be available and it's gonna go quick – Norm’s wines are always in high demand. Aged in both new and second use French oak, this wine has tropical fruit on the nose with vanilla bean and butter. The palate is right at the heart of what Norm is aiming for and here he again hits the mark, “I’ll sacrifice aromatics for better structure and taste”, he once told me, and while the nose might leave a little something to be desired, the taste does not . Melon, vanilla, tropical fruit, nutmeg, baking spice and a mid-palate that has amongst other things has a thin coating of butter. The acidity in this wine is just right, and really gets the mouth watering. Then there’s the length, which will keep you coming back for more. Another notch on Norm’s belt of tasty, quality wines.
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Tuesday, July 24, 2007

Scotch Block Country Winery Sweet Scarlet - $14.95

Some fruit wineries call their sweet wines “ice-wine-style” wines, others call them “dessert wines” or even “fortified/port-style” wines; but what ever they call these sweet beauties they do make dessert-time fun. I’ve also noticed of late that many fruit wineries are trying to find that magic-matching of fruits; and although some seem a little out there, others truly hit the mark. Scotch Block, located in Milton, has come up with something truly unique and wonderfully tasty. Sweet Scarlet is a cranberry-strawberry fusion in the sweet wine category. There’s no mistaking the smells and tastes, but it’s interesting to see how they combine. If you just let this wine sit in the glass the unmistakable smell of strawberry hits the nose; swirl the glass around and cranberry becomes the dominant smell. In the mouth it’s a similar sensation, with sweet strawberry in the mouth, finishing with the tartness of cranberry, and I could swear there’s some cinnamon that sneaks its way into the mid-palate. It is because of the cranberry finish that this wine does not come off as being overly sweet. Ice cold is the best way to serve this wonderful dessert wine … great on its own or, believe it or not, with a stick of red licorice.


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Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Lakeview Cellars Estate Winery 2005 Starboard - $22.95

I have good news and bad news about this wine … the bad news is that it’s up in price, but what do you expect, it’s from the 2005 short-crop vintage. Short crop means less wine, which translate into more money for high-risk wines where the possibility of something going wrong is greater. The good news, nothing did, and Lakeview has made one fantastic port-knock-off. I’ll let you figure out the Starboard / Port reference on your own and instead give you the highlights of this beauty. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, fortified to 19% alcohol and topping out at a mere 7 on the sugar scale. This wine exhibits classic port-like characteristics: sweet black cherries and milk chocolate on the nose followed by full on dark chocolate covered cherries and sweet damson plum in the mouth, and a long sweet finish. Not as thick as port, nor as complex, but let’s give it some time and see how it develops – right now it’s quite delicious, I’d like to see what it’s like in 10 years or so.

Additional note: After 4 weeks of being open and taking a nip ever so often, the wine still retained great flavours and smoothness. Keep capped and at room temperature – and serve with dark chocolate.
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