Back in 2007 I was on the panel of judges for Tony Aspler’s Ontario Wine Awards; we awarded at bronze medal to a new winery called Pointer’s Hill for this very Gewurztraminer made by Andrzej Lipinski ... nobody knew who or what Pointer’s Hill was, but they were a new winery helmed by a reputable winemaker. Well, as Pointer’s Hill tells it, Konrad Ejbich (a fellow wine writer – and not one to keep his opinions to himself) told them that their name was boring and would not make them standout ... so their next step was to acquire a better, catchier name; Organized Crime was born. Now there's a story here about two churches and a stolen organ which is best told by them ... there is no connection to Tony Soprano (as far as I know) – and nobody will break your leg for not buying a bottle before you leave. As for the Gewurztraminer, I finally got a chance to retry it, and yes it's very good: the nose is pure Gewurzt with full on floral, apricot, rose petal and perfume aromas. The taste is complex with good floral and spicy qualities with a touch of sweetness (1). The lengthy finish is loaded with citrus, Mac apple, and something tropical. Only 300 cases were made and they're going fast, so better get on this one quick. If sold out other good choices would be the 2006 Riesling ($17.00); Chardonnay Musque ($15.00) and/or the Unoaked Chardonnay ($18.00). Reds are due out in February 2008.
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Willow Springs Winery 2004 Pinot Noir - Testa Limited Reserve - $10.95 (new price)
Willow Springs does not grow all of their own Vinifera grapes, and the fruit they do bring in is from some of the best growers in Niagara. These Pinot Noir grapes come from the newly anointed grape king, Kevin Watson. This great first-timer Pinot is not only tasty, but a real head-scratcher, especially if you know the price of good Pinot Noir – how can something this good be so inexpensive? With its earthy red fruit (cherry, strawberry, raspberry) nose, and spectacular spices and herbs mingling with the vanilla, earth and cinnamon in the mouth. There’s also a great lengthy finish full of earth and black cherry. Great fruit and a willingness to make good wine at affordable prices – that’s what Willow Springs has always been about and this is a darn fine Pinot to prove it. In fact, it just might be what the turkey ordered; and although the holidays are over those frozen leftovers would welcome this little bit of jazzing up. Bon appetite.
This wine is even a better deal at its new lower price of 10.95 (reg. $13.95).
This wine is even a better deal at its new lower price of 10.95 (reg. $13.95).
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Bella Vigne 2006 Leon Millot / Foch - $15.95
Last year winemaker/grower/owner Pat Del-Gatto of Bella Vigne in Prince Edward County made a lip-smackingly good Millot / Zweigelt blend. Not realizing how good it was going to be and frustration with his Zweigelt grapes, he ripped them out of his vineyard. Now. how do you follow up a wonderful tasty wine like that without the whole cast? Easy, take a page out of Hollywood’s book - bring back the star (Leon) and give him a different supporting cast (Foch) – they’ve been doing it on TV and in the movies for years. Now an 85/15 Leon / Foch blend you’ll find this wine has lots of earthy raspberry and strawberry notes with a touch of Fochness – but not enough to be off-putting. It’s smooth in the mouth and benefits from about half-an-hour in the fridge. What’s more 2 years in the cellar would benefit its smoothness factor. Enjoy now or lie down, it’s your choice … buy 2 and you can do both – and as the old knight said to Indiana Jones on his last crusade, “You have chosen wisely.”
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
Vineland 2005 Elevation Cabernet-Merlot - $25.00
Vineland has finally plugged that hole they had between their $16 and $40 bottles of wine with their new Elevation series. Elevation is vineyard specific … and, as the name suggests, from elevated vineyards; it also showcases “terroir” (soil type) in each bottle. This Elevation is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, has lots of dark and red fruits on the nose making it a real pleasure to sink your nose into. In the mouth there’s more pleasure to come, with cherry, blackberry and a touch of dark chocolate. Good acidity and some pretty hefty tannins lead to a surprising yet excellent velvety soft finish … something I wouldn’t have expected with those weighty mid-palate tannins. If you like to lie your wine down there’s an ageing potential of 7 to 8 years, according to the winemaker Brian Schmidt, but I think you could safely round that up to 10 without a problem. Kudos to Vineland for not just filling a price gap with any old wine, but doing it with something worthy of the price tag. Look for more wines in the Elevation line coming soon.
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Thirty Bench Winemakers 2005 Small Lot Chardonnay - $30.00
Oh Thirty Bench, what a difference ownership makes – I know I keep saying it but it’s true; from a winery I barely even walked into, to a winery making some really interesting and unique wines, not that Chardonnay is particularly unique, but still… Speaking as a Chardonnay-aphobe, I would have to say opening this bottle filled me with questions I dread the answers to: would it be too oaky? Too buttery? Too something? As many Chardonnays have become. My fears were for not because this 14 month French oaked Chard is terrific; the oaking is done lightly with a deft touch. The nose has a hint of butteryness but mostly its apples, pears and some delicate melon aromas. The palate shows the same kind of finesse with tropical fruits such as papaya and pineapple core, cantaloup also shows up and a tasty vanilla finish lingers pleasantly in the mouth. There’s some good acidity in here that makes for a crisp, zingy and lip-smackingly good finish.
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Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Tawse 2006 Echos Bistro White - $22.00
The Cabernet Franc Challenge is over, but the memories and tastes still linger. At the start of each night I poured a white wine from a non-participating winery; a kind of “rinse-bouche” if you will. On the night of December 11th I pulled the cork on a very special treat from Tawse, their 2006 Echos White … This wine runs along the same path as their Echos Red (read reviews 2005 and 2006), so named because the wines echo the making of their premium wines but somewhere along the way they get de-classified or down-graded; me, I’ll take these remnants any day. This wine’s nose is what first reels you in - it has a kind of sniff-all-dayedness to it … lots of vanilla, caramel and butterscotch. On the palate the vanilla continues, but the best part is yet to come. The vanilla is replaced mid-palate by caramel covered green apple and carries right through to the end … smooth and creamy with enough balancing acidity and touch of tartness – and then there’s that extremely long finish – this is a beauty for sure. I may not be a fan of their pricing structure, but this one’s good value at $22.00, it’s memorable, and that’s what good wine should be.
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