Whoa Nelly … here’s a real sweetie that’s just to-die-for, as long as you like your fruits red and sweet. This stunning version of red icewine blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah together and keeps your palate on its proverbial toes; there are plenty of surprises on this path to icewine Nirvana; and here’s why: The nose is very simple, honeyed-strawberries with a hint of apricot, but then you get it into your mouth and there’s an absolute explosion of flavours. Initially, you’ll get candy, in the form of a cherry drop, then raspberry and strawberry show up. You’ll assume that’s it, then you’ll take another sip. The flavours ramp-up to another level as candy apple races through the mouth and you smack your lips, delicious. Now that your mouth is coated with this lavish nectar, another sip kicks it up another notch delivering cinnamon-caramel-apple with a touch of something spicy. Finally, you’re nearing the end of your small glassful and you think, there’s nothing left to get out of this wine right? Wrong. The wine unleashes a red plum/cranberry-like tartness felt mainly in the roof of the mouth. Wow … there’s just so much going on here. Best of all, this sweetie foregoes the usual thick and syrupy; instead imagine smooth sweet red candied enjoyment, plus a whole lot more. What are you waiting for … stop reading … go get some.
Michael Pinkus, the Grape Guy from OntarioWineReview, has a weekly wine pick just for you. A savoury selection from one of Ontario's many wineries that you can serve to impress your friends, give confidently as a gift, or just enjoy alone! A new wine selection is added EVERY WEDNESDAY.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Peller Estates Winery 2006 Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc … $18.95
Sauvignon Blancs has been totally taken over by New Zealand, to such an extent that when you mention Sauvignon Blanc the first thing that they think about is New Zealand. Winemakers are aware of this fact and that’s why they are now trying to copy the Kiwis in style. I was poured this one at the Peller tasting bar and was told quite plainly by the staff member, “just like in New Zealand we held back 5% of the wine to age in barrel.” This wine had the racy citrus tones to it, lots of grapefruit and gooseberry, a little hay and some melon to tickle the nose. In the mouth, its dry with the grapefruit popping out all over the palate and leaving a lengthy finish behind, very refreshing, quite bracing, so very New Zealand – and right here in Ontario.
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Palatine Hills Estate Winery 2002 Meritage - $15.00 vs. 2002 Proprietors Reserve Meritage - $23.00
This is the story about two wines, born eight months apart to the same winery. It's easier to compare and contrast these two wines then give separate reviews because they are similar in preparation and makeup but different in taste. Both wines are made from equal parts cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. The younger meritage spent 18 months in oak, while his brother, the proprietors reserve, spent 26 months in oak and was made from specially selected grapes (read: those ones singled out for special treatment). The eighteen month-old has some oak characteristics with pepper and black fruit, but it retains more of its fruit forwardness. The 26 month-old is more peppery with darker fruits, like cassis and blackberries, with a touch more oak, noticeable spiciness and some drying power on the tongue. Both these wines come from the big ’02 vintage -and we know all about that one, don't we? So it's up to you, fruity ($15.00) or peppery ($23.00) ... It’s your choice.
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Huff Estates 2006 Wismer Vineyard Riesling Reserve - $19.95
The folks at Huff debated whether or not to put the word ‘reserve’ on the label (obviously they are not only smart, but readers of mine), they debated and discussed and finally decided that yes this wine deserved the ‘reserve’ moniker, because: it was pristine fruit from a single vineyard and it was release later than their off-dry version. This dry-Riesling has a very sweet nose, loaded with all the peaches and apples you could want and expect. But the taste goes against the nose with tart green apple and a dry citrus finish. The fruit might come from Niagara, but the heart, soul and taste of this wine is born and bred in the county. Another good wine from Huff (the magic winery).
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Angels Gate 2005 Gamay Noir - $13.95
Welcome to “To chill or not to chill”: the game where you take two bottles of the same wine and serve one chilled and the other at room temperature then compare the aromas and flavours. In this case it’s a Gamay Noir (known in other parts as ‘the Beaujolais grape’) and the chill is about 2 hours. First off, it’s good to know that this Gamay has been aged in French oak for about 2 years, which should give it a little heft and structure. The unchilled version has black raspberry, black cherry, strawberry and cinnamon on the nose with a taste of cedar, blackberries, cassis, a touch of nutmeg and cinnamon with a tart strawberry finish. Chilled, the nose turns all red fruit with lots of cherry; the taste changes to black cherry, tart plum, hint of spice with a sweet smooth finish. You’ll notice that the fruitiness factor on the chilled version is multiplied greatly. So pick your poison: black fruit (room temp) or red fruit (chilled) it’s your choice, but both ways make for a excellent wine.
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
Hillebrand Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc Icewine - $78
There seems to be a trend afoot to scale back on the sweetness of icewine. There was a time when 22 was the norm, then it skyrocketed up to a cloyingly sweet 28 … now it’s not uncommon to see icewine in the 19-20 range, which is a perfect amount of sweetness but still well-balanced with its acidity to make them pair well with, or have as, a dessert. This Cab Franc’s nose leaves little doubt as to what you are smelling: full-on strawberries. As icewine is apt to do the taste follows sweet with strawberry jam like flavours – you’d swear you could spread this on toast. As for the sugar code, this one’s only nineteen (old enough to drink itself here in Ontario). Someone remarked, “it tastes too sweet to drink on its own.” So try it with dark chocolate or some blue veined cheese … or better yet, pour it over fresh strawberries or cherries – but don’t forget to drink the resulting concoction left at the bottom.
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